Wine Talk: My Back Labels

Although I swoon at wine labels designed with some sizzle, the longer I work in the world of wine the more I find that the info on the back label is what makes me pluck something new from the shelf. Taking home the Colombelle red was a perfect example of my back label predilection. I have loved the Colombelle white for years; it was the first wine I had that was weird (Ugni Blanc/Colombard blend from Gascony...huh?) and cheap. And I have spent the last decade drinking it like someone was going to take it away from me.

So when I came across the red version of this wine I was intrigued. And reading the back label, I was hooked. And a little confused. Cabernet, Merlot? Got it. Tannat? 60%? What the hell is Tannat and why is it in 6/10ths of my bottle? Oh, wait. Tannat is that hard as nails grape. The only reason to make wines from it is to handle the cuisine of Gascony, which is foie gras-intensive. It may be the only wine that has the gum-searing tannins to cut through a cooked goose liver.

But wait. Delving deeper into the back label I see this wine is 12% alcohol. That is very low for a red wine. And, what? Serve it lightly chilled? Seriously? Tannat?

I believe the Cabernet and Merlot mellow out the Tannat a bit, but I wonder how they get this red wine to be so light and refreshing. Are the grapes picked earlier or fermented briefer to control the level of alcohol? However they do it, chilling it is apropos. It makes the Colombelle red the ultimate summer BBQ wine; put it in the fridge for an hour and drink it with hot dogs, cheeseburgers, and ribs. Save the Zinfandel for keeping you warm in the winter; this summer, it's all about the Tannat.

Jameson Fink is a wine buyer at a bustling grocery store in Seattle’s Capitol Hill neighborhood. He moved to Seattle from Chicago (where he dabbled in the restaurant and wine industries) five years ago to pursue a full-time career in wine. He’d rather be drinking Champagne and eating popcorn right now.