The World's Most Neglected Wines (Part One): Australian Riesling

In its recent heyday as the critical darling of the wine world, Aussie Shiraz was unstoppable. Massive scores, massive wines, massive prices. How the mighty fall. With a glut of jammy, indiscernible reds with cloying flavors and gimmicky labels flooding the market (combined, to put it mildly, with a bit of a economic downturn), the wine-buying public turned a blind eye to all Aussie reds that did not have a kangaroo on the label.  I do, however, ask that you ignore all that has come to pass in the world of Aussie Shiraz and focus on Riesling.  Yes.  Riesling.  From Australia.  Look for anything from the Clare or Eden Valley; these are dry, dry, dry Rieslings.  How dry?  Sahara dry.  Yet they have loads of zesty lime flavor, moderate alcohol, and (most importantly) are a delight to drink.  I fondly recall attending one of Seattle's best oyster happy hours at a place with a mediocre wine list.  I asked for a bottle of Pikes Riesling that had clearly, based on the vintage, had been on the list for a few years;  unsurprisingly, the waiter said that in the four years he had worked there I was the first person to order it.  Well, fortune favors the bold.  This lively white, though gathering some dust, was as fresh as a daisy, reasonably priced, and phenomenal with oysters (especially when you top them with a frozen mignonette).  And if you have a fondness for ceviche, fish tacos, and/or sushi (just go easy on the soy sauce), you have found your perfect wine.

PS:  Sorry for all the parenthesis; my writing style clearly could use a shot in the arm.  (Seriously.)

PPS: I realize this wine has an animal on the label but pike (or any firm-fleshed fish) and Aussie Riesling would be delicious.  (Maybe with a fennel slaw.  Damn, I did that parenthesis thing again.  Twice.)